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Author
[COSTUME]
Title
One Hundred Hand-Coloured Reproductions of Most Noteworthy Creations of Paquin, Callot, Cheruit, Francis, Beer, Drecoll, Etc
Published
New York: Max Grab Fashion Co., 1910.
Description
FIRST LIMITED EDITION. 4to - Bachwitz edition, No 18 of limited edition of 25, issued by Max Grab Fashion Co., of New York. There are a total of 91 plates, measuring 11" x 8" each, or 29 x 21 cm, with two fold out plates measuring 11" x 11". The regular plates each feature a coloured illustration of a young model wearing a beautiful outfit of the day along with one, two or three other black and white illustrations to the side showing the same outfit from different angles or in close-up. The fold-outs have colour illustrations of models each, bringing the total of colour figures to 95, short of the 100 cited in the title. Nonetheless there is no evidence of loss or pages removed. The condition of this book, which has some similarity to a fine trade catalogue but one issued on better paper and then was bound in fine leather, is fine, with the plates all pristine. The title page, or wrap cover, has a few minuscule edge chips and a few trivial bleached out spots in a corner. The modern leather is pristine. Red title label on spine saying "Printemps 1910", which is not, by the way, ever mentioned inside, as there is no copyright page or any written content other than title page and plate numbering 1 to 85 followed by lettering A to K, corresponding to colour figures, with three letters per fold-out. Lettering not in order, which is among quirky things about this publication, yet I repeat that the book does not appear to have been tampered with in any way. Marbled endpaper. Max Grab was an importer of French fashion, and the company had an office in Paris as well, although it is unknown whether it had a Parisian office at the time of the publication of this book. The Parisian designers included among the top couturiers of the period, as would be obvious just from a glimpse at the elegance of their designs. Callot, a design firm run by a sister team, and Jeanne Paquin, were fashion houses that outlasted their founders, with Paquin thriving until the 1950s, when it was run aground after acquiring and attempting to resuscitate the once great firm of Worth, whose heyday was the late nineteenth century. Jeanne Paquin herself was the first female designer to run a firm of her own, opening her fashion house in 1891, and she was celebrated in her day for her modern designs. She also appears to have had a genius for marketing and publicity stunts, and she would arrange to have her models wearing her designs attend the races and opera, among other things. In other words, she would appear to be the prototype and probable role model for Coco Chanel, or to put it another way, the true Chanel before there was a Chanel. The Callot sisters opened their firm in 1895, and they were noted for their use of exotic detail. They also apprenticed Madeleine Vionnet, who was to become a top designer. The Callot house was shuttered in 1952, but in 1995 the label was purchased by the Lummen family, suggesting that the label could be revived. One other piece of trivia relating to the Max Grab Co.: the famous movie director and actor, Erich von Stroheim, who notwithstanding his name was of non-aristocratic Jewish background, was employed by the company before he got his start in the nascent movie industry. In summation, this is a fantastic, and highly unique, costume book featuring sophisticated and flattering gowns, dresses, blouses, and the most extravagant of hats. Plates are not captioned in any way.

Coloured plates in order:

1. Model in blue dress trimmed with lace - gloves and a fan.
2. Red headed model with a pale completion in a pale blue dress.
3. Attractive model in a grey dress with a pretty hat that tied at the chin.
4. Model wearing a pink and mauve dress and hat.
5. Model in an elegantly designed blue-grey close fitting dress.
6. Redhead model in a dark blue dress with a parasol..
7. Model in a light brown (tweed?) jacket and long skirt.
8. Model in a chic green and light pink dress and hat.
9. Model in a dark blue and black dress, holding a parasol..
10. Model in a blue dress and a mauve hat.
11. Model in a blue dress with red trimmings and a blue and pink hat.
12. Model in a blue dress with a fawn coloured hat with feather.
13. Model in a pretty turquoise dress, looking into a hand held mirror.
14. Model in a green and salmon coloured dress, with shawl and hat.
15. Model in an elegantly designed dress of pale green trimmed at base with black, white gloves and a wide brimmed hat.
16. Model with hand on hip, in a dress of subtle pinks, blues and black. Pink rose hat.
17. Model wearing a light green dress with attractive floral embellishments and a large brown hat.
18. Model in an elaborate pale pink hat is seen wearing a dress of blue, black and white lace and other lighter colours.
19. Elegant model wearing a slim olive coloured dress and matching hat.
20. Model wearing a blue and black dress, white gloves and a wide brimmed hat with blue feathers.
21. Model holding a fan in an elegant dress in blue and black, with a bow tied at the neck.
22. Elegant model seen wearing a black and white check dress and a grey silk top with black ties, a pink scarf and a hat.
23. Model wearing a black dress holding a pair of opera glasses.
24. Model wearing a light grey dress with white gloves, feather fan and a hat with a large pink bow on top.
25. Model in a white dress with black dots and trimmed with lace, an attractive pink bow is tied around the waist, plus hat.
26. Model wearing a pretty pink dress with polka dots, a duck egg blue shawl, holding a parasol.
27. Model wearing a pretty light brown skirt and matching jacket, white gloves and a walking stick.
28. A lovely dress of a lighter blue trimmed with lace, model also wearing a fawn coloured hat.
29. Red head model in a dress of cream overlaid with colours of grey, gold and white. Tied at the waist.
30. Model in a dress of lighter blue, embellished with a sequence of black buttons.
31. Model in a turquoise dress with black overlay, fawn coloured hat.
32. Elegant dress of light blue, grey and gold - hat with a large light blue feather.
33. Model in a white dress trimmed with gold and subtle pink designs.
34. Model in a dress of light grey, half sleeves, tied at the waist and in a matching hat.
35. Stroking model in a corn coloured dress with a pale green hat with white feathers.
36. Model in a corn coloured skirt and matching jacket, and mauve hat.
37. Model in an attractive mauve coloured dress and matching hat.
38. Model wearing a dark grey dress trimmed with white lace, and a tied bow at the neck.
39. Model wearing a matching blue and black trimmed skirt and jacket, topped off with a wide brimmed hat of white with light green feathers.
40. Model wearing a dark blue dress trimmed with multi coloured lace at throat and cuffs.
41. Model, with hand on hip, in an attractive dress of emerald green and black, with white gloves and hat.
42. Model holding a parasol, wearing a dress of blue, edged in black, with a green hat.
43. Model wearing a simple dark blue dress, tied at the waist, with a mauve hat.
44. Model in a matching grey and white check skirt and jacket. White gloves, cane and floral hat.
45. Model in a cream dress with black overlays, black hat with white feathers.
46. Model in a mauve dress with matching hat and a parasol.
47. Model in a fetching corn and pale pink coloured dress, with half sleeves and hat.
48. Model wearing a brown dress with a light blue shawl and matching hat.
49. Model wearing an olive coloured dress with half sleeves trimmed with lace, matching hat.
50. Model wearing a dress of turquoise and corn colours, trimmed with black lace.
51. Model wearing a light 'plum' coloured dress edged in blue with brown hat with light blue feather.
52. Model wearing a blue dress with a fawn coloured handbag and matching hat.
53. Model in an attractive dress of various shades of blue with a green and violet hat.
54. Model in a salmon pink dress holding a posy of small flowers.
55. Model in blue dress with black embellishments, half sleeves trimmed with lace.
56. Model in a striking dress of 'electric' blue with attractive hat in brown with purple and red roses.
57. Model in a attractive dress in turquoise, cream, blue and black. Tied at the waist with a long tassel.
58. Model in a check design dress with edging in black and pink, with matching hat.
59. Ornate white dress with pink waistband.
60. Model wearing a dress with intricate patterns in black gold over a turquoise coloured underlay. Matching headband.
61. Model wearing a simple dress of black with a red tied bow at the waist, with lace to shoulders and sleeves.
62. Model in a grey dress with highlights in pink and mauve, with matching hat.
63. Red head model in a dress of white polka dots with highlights in a pale pink colour, holding a fan.
64. Model in a pale yellow dress with intricate designs to chest, waist, sleeves and legs. With parasol.
65. Lady in an a pale olive dress with folded parasol and large blue hat with white feathers.
66. Model in a pale yellow dress, with small floral designs, tied at the waist with a black band.
67. Demure model in a dress of blue, green, dark pink and gold.
68. Model in a dress of light blue and light pink with matching hat.
69. Attractive model in a dress of pale pink , grey and white.
70. Model in a caramel coloured dress with a mauve shawl and matching hat.
71. Model in a white dress with grey overlays, half sleeves and a matching hat.
72. Model in a blue dress with a red and yellow clasp at the waist, lace cuffs and some yellow to lapels.
73. Model in a plain purple dress with a grey sash, lace at the neck and cuffs.
74. Model in a blue dress with black buttons, cuffs and sash, white gloves and a splash of red to shoulders.
75. Model in a pretty red, dotted dress, with half sleeves and collar trimmed with lace, edged in black at waist and legs.
76. Model in an attractive multi coloured dress design of yellow, grey, pink, red and white. Pale green hat.
77. A matching dark blue jacket and skirt, with black tied bow at neck and lovely matching hat.
78. Model in an elegant light brown matching jacket and skirt, with frills to chest and a black bow around the neck.
79. Pretty pink dress with pleats, lace to cuffs and neck, multi coloured design to arms and shoulders.
80. Model in a nice pale brown dress with hints of blue with matching hat.
81. Red head model in an elegant dress of palest green with a yellow waistband. Attractive hat with floral decoration.
82. Model in a blue dress with black trimming. Coloured waistband and matching hat. Holding a parasol.
83. Model wearing a biscuit coloured dress with hints of red and blue, black waistband, and matching parasol and hat of blue.
84. Model wearing a fawn coloured dress with green bows to chest and sleeves.
85. 'B,C,D'. Folding plate of three models wearing an assortment of the latest fashions - one in a hat, two bareheaded.
86. 'A,E,K'. Folding plate of three models in the latest fashions - two in hats, one bareheaded.
87. 'F'. Model in a light blue, black and yellow dress.
88. 'G'. Model in a light brown dress with a check underlay, red and green to the lapels, lace to throat and cuffs.
89. 'H'. Model in a grey and white check dress, with a black tied bow to neck, green parasol and matching hat.
90. 'J'. Red head model in white patterned dress with a black overlay with gold designs to wide lapels.
Hand coloured plates
90
Binding/Size
M=4to
Category
Costume, The Americas
Value
$0-5,000
Stock ID
1489